Footwear Development

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Outdoor footwear development

Footwear for the places your customers go.

We develop hunting, waterfowl, fishing, and hiking footwear for outdoor brands. I've been developing footwear for more than forty years, and I work on every program we take on.

Since 1984NikeadidasUnder ArmourHukDouble i Works
Why footwear is different

Footwear is a different sport.

You've built the brand, the audience, and the reputation. Footwear asks for things apparel and gear never did: a last, a mold for every size, factory minimums, months of sampling, and testing in water and cold that a showroom never shows you.

Every one of those decisions is expensive to undo. A last that's a few millimeters off shows up as returns a season later. We make those calls with you, early, with the same senior hands on your project from the first sketch to the boxes at your warehouse.

Who you'll work with

Iiley Thompson Sr.

I started in footwear development at Nike in 1984. Since then I've worked at adidas, Under Armour, and Huk, and in 2019 I started Double i Works to work directly with outdoor brands. I still review every sample myself.

2019 – todayDouble i WorksFounder · Principal developer
2016 – 2019HukVice President, Footwear
2005 – 2016Under ArmourDevelopment, sourcing, and GM of Outdoor Footwear
1998 – 2005adidasDirector of Development, Footwear
1984 – 1998NikeFootwear development
How a program runs

From brief to boxes in your warehouse

A new footwear line usually takes 8 to 14 months from an approved brief to delivery. We set the calendar on day one and hold it, because a late sample round can cost a selling season.

The short answer

Developing a new boot or shoe means a brief and line plan, design and tech packs, lasts and tooling, two or three sample rounds with wear testing, final costing, then production and inspection.

i.

Brief & program plan

Customer, use case, price and margin targets, line plan, calendar, factory shortlist.

2–4 wks
ii.

Design & specification

Concepts, tech packs, bill of materials, last selection, material sourcing.

4–8 wks
iii.

Lasts, tooling & first samples

Lasts finalized, outsole and midsole molds cut, prototypes built.

6–10 wks
iv.

Sample rounds & wear testing

Fit trials, lab tests, field wear tests, and costing negotiated round by round.

8–16 wks
v.

Production & quality

Confirmation samples, purchase orders, inline and final inspections, shipping.

12–20 wks
How we work, step by step
Who we work with

A small number of programs each year

Our best work happens with hunting, fishing, and outdoor brands that have earned their customers' trust and want footwear that keeps it.

A strong fit

  • An outdoor brand with a loyal following, adding footwear or a new category
  • A footwear brand that needs to fix cost, quality, fit, or a factory relationship
  • Funded for the whole job: development, tooling, sampling, a first production run, and the marketing to sell it
  • Standards high enough that "good enough" isn't

Probably not a fit

  • A first product financed on personal credit or a home loan
  • A one-off pair, a custom shoe, or a prototype with no plan to produce
  • Choosing a factory on the lowest price above everything else
  • No plan yet for how the product will be sold once it's made
"We don't want you to have to fit into some system. We answer the questions before they're asked. That's what makes us different."
Iiley Thompson Sr.
Start a project

Tell us what you're building.

Share the brand, the category, and where you are today. If it's a fit, you'll talk directly with me. We're glad to sign your NDA before the first call.

Based
Cannon County, Tennessee
Factories
United States and Asia